Summer Vacation Part IV

Ashley went surfing.  Jim was nice enough to offer to help her learn the basics.  She had taken one lesson when we were in Hawaii a dozen years ago, but she thought her time on a snowboard would help.  I believe it did.  The waves were nothing for the California crew to get excited for.  However, they were nice enough for Ashley to hone her skills.  Before getting in the water, Jim taught Ashley the best way to transition from paddling to standing.  Evidently you have to do it with one fluid motion or your center of gravity gets all out of whack.

Note both are wearing a wetsuit.  Ashley would not get close to the water without one.  After a few practice sessions, they paddled out into the surf (looks almost glass-like, doesn't it).

Jim was a phenomenal teacher.  He's been surfing for 40+ years, so he knows what he is talking about. He hung by Ashley and coached her up, told her when to paddle, and watched her try to stand up.

Here's a movie a good attempt, although she wasn't able to stand up.  The other surfer in the video is Charlie.

Charlie has been surfing just as long as Jim, so they make it look easy when they catch a wave.

Ashley was able to get up a couple times, although I didn't get any real good shots of her.  I did get the following sequence, which makes it look like she knows what she's doing.

Ashley was in the waves for almost an hour.  Like most water sports, she said it was exhausting.  She also said she can see how easy it is to get hooked on surfing, because when she got up, the feeling was both exhilarating and calming, some type of chaotic serenity.  Interesting dichotomy.  No need to get her a surf board for Christmas--let's wait until we get that beach house first :-)